Wesley R. Elsberry
Posts: 4991 Joined: May 2002
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I'll make some comments about gear for recording snapping shrimp.
At the minimal, low-cost end, one can demonstrate that snapping shrimp are active at a particular place and time with just an audio recording. For this level of documentation, one should have an audio recorder and either a hydrophone or a water-resistant microphone. If you already have an audio recorder (cassette tape, DAT, digital recorder, voice recorder, video camcorder, etc.) and a hydrophone, you are set.
You can make a hydrophone or water-resistant microphone inexpensively.
If you go with making a microphone water-resistant, it is best to think of it as a disposable item. In other words, think Coby, not Sennheiser, when picking a microphone to deploy in saltwater, unless you have cash to burn. A common way to make a microphone water-resistant is to slide it into an unlubricated condom and seal the condom's open end to the microphone cable. This can be done with alternating layers of good electrical tape (i.e., 3M Scotch Super 33+) and a sealing compound (i.e., 3M Scotchkote (preferred) or rubber cement (OK in a pinch)). I'd do at least two layers of seal. Obviously, a dynamic microphone rather than an electret will be easier to deal with, since the electret mics require a battery or phantom power. Let's say that you buy a dynamic mic for $20 or less, the Scotchkote is about $20 at Home Depot the last time I got it there, and Super 33+ is about $4 a roll. I don't recall the cost on unlubricated condoms, but let's just call this do-it-yourself project about $50 for the first one, and less than $25 each for subsequent ones.
A do-it-yourself hydrophone can be prepared using a piezoelectric element with cabling, sealed against saltwater intrusion. Here is a source of piezo disks, 6 for $1.50. You'll need a cable, so make one of suitable length. Coax is better for the small signals coming out of the piezo disk. You need to solder the cable at one end to each side of the disk; for the disks linked above, that would be one solder connection anywhere on the metal backing, and one on the visible disk material. For a somewhat more sophisticated project, add a preamplifier circuit and a line for power for it. Putting a preamplifier right with the transducer helps reduce transmission loss, especially if you want to use a long cable. Another unlubricated condom can be used to cast the disk and exposed cable connections (and pre-amp, if it is used) with some casting material (urethane, epoxy, or silicone caulk in order of preference). At the other end, add a signal connector for your equipment. You will likely need an amplifier to go between a piezo disk hydrophone and a recorder. Radio Shack's Mini Audio Amplifier has adjustable gain, a speaker, and a headphone jack for $15. If you use it, you'll want to put an 1/8" mini-plug end on the hydrophone, and get a 1/8" mini-plug cable to go to your recorder. The RS amp is also useful to check out function of components simply by listening to the speaker output. Toting up, let's say $5 for piezo disks and shipping, $10 for coax cable, $15 for the mini amp, $5 for the plug for the cable, $5 for a connecting cable, and $10 for casting material. That's about $50 for a do-it-yourself hydrophone system.
I'll discuss getting better recordings and how the price goes up for that later.
-------------- "You can't teach an old dogma new tricks." - Dorothy Parker
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